The four islands
Markets, craftspeople, secret beaches and great classics: our addresses and tips for experiencing the islands like the people who live there.
Each entry says whether it is a must-see or a local secret, and gives a practical tip. Shops open and close quickly: we favour lasting places — markets, workshops, sites and villages — rather than businesses. Always check opening hours and conditions locally.
Moroni, Volo Volo district
The capital's great covered market is the best place to experience Moroni unfiltered: seasonal fruit and vegetables, fish, spices, vanilla, colourful fabrics, perfumes, utensils… The stalls spill over into the neighbouring streets, where villagers and town traders rub shoulders.
Tip: Come in the morning, when the choice is widest, with small notes in Comorian francs. For vanilla, choose supple, glossy pods, and compare several stalls before buying.
Moroni, seafront
Behind the Friday Mosque and its white minaret, the alleys of the medina wind between stone houses, carved doors and small neighbourhood mosques. The old harbour, where dhows once came ashore, comes to life at the end of the day.
Tip: Cover your shoulders and knees near the mosques, and always ask before photographing someone.
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Moroni
Founded in 1979, the National Centre for Documentation and Scientific Research houses the National Museum, opened in 1989: history, archaeology and religion, volcanology, oceanography (with the coelacanth) and anthropology. It also brings together the National Archives and Library and the Karthala observatory.
Tip: An ideal visit at the start of your stay, to understand the island before exploring it, or on a rainy day.
A few kilometres north of Moroni
A former sultanate capital built on a rocky promontory, Itsandra retains sections of ramparts, defensive towers and a palace of lava blocks. Below lies a white-sand beach where Moroni families come to swim at weekends.
Tip: Early in the morning or late in the afternoon, the light is superb and the beach quieter.
Mitsamiouli, north coast
White sand, black volcanic rocks and coconut palms: the Mitsamiouli area has some of the island's finest beaches, including Maloudja. The water is usually calm and clear, and the fishermen's canoes are pulled up on the sand.
Tip: The dry season (May to November) is the most pleasant time for swimming. Bring water and a hat: the wild beaches have few facilities.
East coast of the island
On the east coast, the white sand of Chomoni stands out against the lava rocks and greenery. The rocky and coral seabed attracts snorkellers.
Tip: Bring water shoes for the rocky stretches.
North of the island
Nestled in dense vegetation, Bouni beach offers white sand, blue water, a few snack bars and a volleyball court: a favourite with local people for family outings.
Tip: On weekdays, you will often have the beach almost to yourself.
North-east of the island
The village is known for its small “miraculous” mosque, which tradition says was built by the djinns in a single night, and for its peaceful beach. Read the legend: The mosque built in one night.
Tip: Combine the visit with nearby Lac Salé.
North of the island, near Mitsamiouli
An old crater filled with brackish water, Niamawi, which tradition says is inhabited by djinns; not far away, the cove of the Trou du Prophète. Two sites and two legends: Lac Salé and the Trou du Prophète.
Tip: Combine the two sites with a swim at Mitsamiouli on the same day.
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Centre and south of the island
The active volcano (2,361 m) is climbed in two days with a bivouac, through the forest and then the heathland, up to the immense caldera of nested craters.
Tip: Go with a local guide, plenty of water and warm clothes: nights are cold at the summit.
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Hambou, 18 km south of Moroni
On 5 April 1977, a lava flow from Karthala destroyed about 80% of the village (293 houses), without causing any deaths: only the Friday mosque and the hospital were spared. The inhabitants rebuilt Singani on the cooled lava, using volcanic stone.
Tip: Stop as you drive along the southern road: the black lava flow runs right down to the sea.
Badjini, south of the island
A former royal town and the main town of Badjini: its public square (bangwe), the ruins of the sultans' palace and the goba la salama, the gateway through which young warriors passed before battle. Foumbouni is renowned for its women potters, and ngalawa canoes line its beaches.
Tip: Bring back a piece of pottery: it is the local speciality.
5 km south of Moroni
The former capital of Bambao, Iconi retains its ramparts and mosques at the foot of an old crater. Tradition associates it with the memory of the women who chose to throw themselves from the cliff rather than be captured: The women of Iconi.
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North-west coast
The town that tradition links to Mtswa Mwindza, the archipelago's first convert to Islam, has kept a long rampart facing the ocean: built against the raids, it now protects the town from storms. Read: Mtswa Mwindza and the light of Islam.
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Moroni and the island's villages
The kofia, the hand-embroidered cap worn by men, takes many hours of work; gold jewellery, given at the grand marriage, is the island's other great craft. Both can be found at the market and in the shops of central Moroni.
Tip: A hand-embroidered kofia can be recognised by the delicacy and regularity of its patterns: it costs considerably more than a factory-made one.
All over the island
Grilled fish or lobster, mataba (cassava leaves in coconut milk), fragrant pilau, green bananas and breadfruit: Comorian cuisine is generous. In the evening, kebabs grilled by the roadside are a popular meeting point. Read: Comorian cuisine.
Tip: During Ramadan, the small eateries open mainly after the fast is broken, at sunset.
Opposite Nioumachoua, south coast
A handful of uninhabited islets ringed by reefs: picnics, swimming and snorkelling in the heart of the national park. On one of them, ruins recall the former isolation of people with leprosy: Ouénéfou, the lepers' islet.
Tip: Trips are booked in the village, with the boatmen and the park guides.
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South-east of the island
Green turtles come in large numbers to nest on the beaches of Itsamia. Founded by the villagers in 1991, the ADSEI association protects the nesting sites and welcomes visitors in its community bungalows, with guides from the village.
Tip: No white torches or flash near the turtles: follow the guides' instructions.
See the place pageSouth-east of the island
An old crater with sulphurous water and no fish, credited with healing virtues; it is a Ramsar site. Read the legend: Lake Boundouni, the healing water.
Tip: People speak softly here: it is a respected place.
See the place pageFomboni, near the main square
The little capital revolves around its well-stocked market: fruit, vegetables, fish, spices and everyday goods. It is also where you will find taxis and good advice for exploring the island.
Tip: Mohéli has few cash machines: withdraw money before leaving Fomboni.
South of the island
The upland forests of Ouallah are home to Livingstone's fruit bat, one of the largest bats in the world. A half-hour walk also leads to the Ouallah 2 waterfall.
Tip: Go with a guide from the village: they know the trees where the fruit bats roost.
North-west coast
A welcoming village and, not far away, the beach of Kavé Hoani: white sand and great peace, popular for camping.
Tip: Ask the village's permission before pitching your tent.
West of the island
A peaceful region, with beaches suitable for camping, far from any bustle.
Djoiezi, near the airport
Above Djoiezi lie the remains of the island's oldest city: ramparts, stone houses, tombs. Read: Mwali-Mdjini, the abandoned city.
Tip: The site has no visitor facilities: ask a local resident to guide you.
Fomboni
Capital of the rulers of Mwali in the 19th century, bombarded by the French navy in 1871, Fomboni keeps the memory of Queen Djoumbé Fatima and of its seven villages.
Off the south coast
From mid-August to early October, humpback whales come to give birth and raise their calves in the calm waters of Mohéli.
Tip: Choose a boatman or operator who respects the approach distances.
Mutsamudu
Narrow alleys, houses with carved wooden doors, stone stairways: the old town is explored on foot up to the citadel, built between 1782 and 1789, which overlooks the bay.
Tip: Climb up to the citadel at the end of the day for the view over the harbour and the medina.
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Mutsamudu
Anjouan produces about 70% of the Union's cloves, and a good share of its ylang-ylang and vanilla. On the capital's stalls: spices, fruit, fresh fish, printed fabrics and carved wooden objects.
Tip: During the clove season, the cloves dry in the sun on mats in front of the houses: a fragrant sight not to be missed.
East coast
The island's former capital: aristocratic houses with doors adorned with Koranic motifs, carved verandas, ancient tombs. Its craftspeople excel in red pottery and palm-leaf basketry. Read: The seven ships of Shiraz.
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Bambao, Ouani and the island's villages
Anjouan, “the perfume island”, has been distilling ylang-ylang since the 19th century. The flowers, picked at dawn, spend long hours in the still: you can follow the picking, then the distillation, right through to the bottle of essential oil.
Tip: Arrive early in the morning for the picking, and buy the oil directly from the producer.
Bambao Mtsanga, east coast
In the mid-19th century, Sultan Abdallah III, known as Mawana, had this palace built facing the sea, in a park, near his sugar cane plantations and his sugar mill, later converted into a perfume distillery. The palace is deteriorating: fragile heritage, to be visited with respect.
Centre of the island
A crater lake perched at about 900 m in the forest, on the way to the island's highest point (1,595 m). A classic hike links Mchakojou to Lingoni via the lake. Read the legend: Lake Dzialandzé, the water of the spirits.
Tip: A guide is essential: the trails are poorly marked and often in the mist.
See the place pageSouth of the island
About 120 metres of fine sand between rocks and vegetation: Anjouan's busiest beach, with a small restaurant and one of the island's few hotels.
Tip: At weekends, families gather here: come on a weekday for more peace and quiet.
Western tip of the island
The village of Bimbini opens onto a wide lagoon facing Mohéli. La Selle islet and its white-sand beaches can be reached by boat, or on foot at very low spring tides.
Tip: Check the tide times before setting off on foot.
Near the village of Tatinga
A high waterfall in a bowl of greenery: one of the emblematic landscapes of Anjouan, the island of rivers.
Tip: The trails are slippery in the rainy season: go with a guide.
Sima peninsula, west of the island
The Ziarani-Sima site, occupied from the 9th century, preserves the remains of one of the oldest stone mosques in the archipelago (11th–12th century), rebuilt in the 15th century; a mihrab with cord motifs bears witness to it. Read: Islam and the Swahili world.
Tip: The site has no visitor facilities: go with a local resident.
South-east of the island
A densely populated high farming plateau, with fields and copses as far as the eye can see, and a land of traditions: this is where the trimba, the festival of the pact with the djinns, is celebrated.
Tip: Festival dates vary: ask locally.
North-east, near the airport
The airport town is also the town of the nkoma, a festival celebrated every three years in memory of the founding families' pact with the djinns: The pact of Basra.
South coast
Around Pomoni, forests and rivers are home to Livingstone's fruit bat, a giant bat endemic to Anjouan and Mohéli, and the mongoose lemur.
Tip: The fruit bats are best seen at the end of the day, when they leave their roosting trees.
Centre and north of the island
A hike popular with Anjouanese people, through crops, clove trees and upland forests, with views over both coasts of the island.
Tip: Set off at dawn, in the dry season (May to October).
Mamoudzou
The island's main market: cassava, plantains, mangoes, papayas, vanilla, cardamom, medicinal plants, samosas… and craft stalls: carved wooden boxes and model dhows, basketry, jewellery, and salouva, the wrap worn by Mahoran women.
Tip: Come in the morning: that is when the market is at its liveliest.
See the place pageCoconi, central Grande-Terre
In the heart of the farming island, Coconi hosts a producers' market and, several times a year, craft markets, especially before festivals and during the holidays.
Tip: The dates of the craft markets are announced by the tourist office.
Hamouro, southern Grande-Terre
A food market regularly livens up Hamouro beach: Mahoran specialities, local produce and music, with your feet in the sand.
Tip: Ask the tourist office and the associations of the south for the next dates.
Bandrélé, east coast
Some twenty “mamas shingo” keep alive a technique unique to Mayotte: filtering the salty mud of the mangrove, then evaporating the brine over a wood fire. Their association has opened an ecomuseum to share this know-how, handed down from mother to daughter.
Tip: Visits are by appointment: contact the ecomuseum before you go.
Dapani, south of the island
A “red desert” facing the lagoon: padza (“bad earth” in Shimaore) is an eroded, barren volcanic soil. A geological trail of about twenty minutes, with information panels, leads to a viewpoint where the red of the earth echoes the blue of the lagoon.
Tip: Go early: there is no shade at all.
Kani-Kéli, south of the island
Seagrass beds where green turtles graze, a few strokes from the sand: one of the finest encounters in the lagoon.
Tip: Keep your distance: turtles must not be touched or chased.
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South-eastern point
Wild, protected beaches where turtles nest, facing White Sand Islet. They are reached on foot along a coastal path.
Tip: A hike with no shade: take plenty of water and set off early.
South-east lagoon
An immaculate sandbank in the middle of the lagoon, uncovered mainly at low tide: one of the most photographed boat trips in Mayotte.
Tip: Book with a boat operator; sunscreen and a hat are essential.
North-west of the island
Mtsamboro islet, home to a few fishing families, and right next to it the Choizil islets, with no buildings at all, which can be reached by boat or on foot at low tide.
Tip: Go with an operator who knows the currents and the tide times.
Eastern point of Petite-Terre
A white-sand cove at the foot of volcanic cliffs, at the eastern tip of the island, where turtles come to nest.
Tip: Respect the marked nesting areas and leave no lights on the beach at night.
Petite-Terre
A crater lake with green water, which you can walk around on a trail with fine views over the lagoon. Read the legend: The king's daughter and Lake Dziani.
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South of the island
The southern peak (594 m) can be climbed in about an hour and a half; from the summit, there is a view over the double coral barrier.
Tip: Set off at sunrise: the end of the climb is steep and exposed.
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Dzaoudzi, Petite-Terre
Housed in the former barracks of 1845 on the rock of Dzaoudzi, the museum presents Mahoran heritage: women's debaa, jewellery, doukas (village grocery shops), Bandrélé salt, archaeology, nature and the lagoon.
Tip: Take the opportunity to walk around the rock and its colonial buildings.
Tsingoni, west of the island
The former royal mosque of the sultanate's capital: its mihrab bears two inscriptions dated 1538.
Tip: Ask permission before entering, wearing clothing that covers you.
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Mamoudzou seafront
Every October since 2022, the town of Mamoudzou has held a traditional canoe (laka) race on its seafront: crews of three paddlers, with youth (14–17), adult and company categories. The first edition drew nearly 1,000 visitors.
Tip: The date is announced each year by the town of Mamoudzou. For the history of the canoe, see Traditional sports and games.
Everywhere, especially in the evening
Mabawa, marinated grilled chicken wings, are eaten with banana or cassava at roadside stalls; kebabs and grilled fish are never far away.
Tip: The doukas, village grocery shops, are handy for water and everyday goods.
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